Ashgabat looks like a land of fantasy, the city is very beautiful and is so white.

The roads are wide and clean. Almost all of the buildings in the city are marble white tower blocks and there are parks, statues, fountains all over the city. People from Turkmenistan has all different kinds of look, Asian, Caucasian, Middle Eastern, Hispanics, Indians, gypsies… Everyone can blend into the Turkmen’s look and all the ladies here wear very colorful traditional dress.

Ashgabat is also a weird city. There are police everywhere, standing at almost every corner and there are many people cleaning the street everywhere.

Most while marble buildings are empty and the street is very quiet. The city looks a little fake and as if the city is built for staging some film productions.

There are no ATMs in Turkmenistan that takes international card. Took a bus to Senagat Bank, south of Ashgabat to get some cash. Even though I was charged 3% on withdrawal, I was glad to be able to get cash advances because I was low on cash and money changers don’t want my old USD bills.
Next to the bank is Yimpas department store. This is the largest mall in Ashgabat.

Took another bus to futher south to Berzengi.

Independence Park

More marble white tower blocks

Independence park.

A big fountain.

Bus station beside Tekke Bazaar

Russian Bazaar

Arch of Neutrality (The previous president’s gold statue will rotate with the sun)

Another square.

Another fountain

Ex President Niyasov statue again

Again

Plov (Rice) with Chicken for dinner

British Pub.

Beer is quite expensive in Turkmenistan, I paid 24 manat ~USD$8 for a beer. Vodka is much cheaper, around USD$2-3 a bottle.
Had to climb over the door to get back to the homestay because I got back late and the door was locked.

In 1948, Ashgabat was hit by a big earthquake. 2/3 of the population died and the city was destroyed. The city was completely rebuilt after that. From what I read before getting to the country, Turkmenistan is pretty isolated and the former president Niyasov is obsessed with himself. He built a giant statue of himself rotating with the sun and wrote a handbook called Ruhnama which is a compulsory reading for everyone. There are many gold statues and portrait of him in the city.
Internet is expensive here so not many people have email address.

Turkmenistan is a net exporter of energy and ranks 4th in the world for natural gas reserves. The country has a huge oil reserves as well. Electricity, natural gas, water and salt are subsidized by the government so it’s free. Oil is pretty cheap and it’s around 15 cents for a liter of petrol. I heard that around 5 years ago, oil is almost free.

Took bus 83 to the terminal and got on the 7.20am bus (8000 Iranian Rials~USD0.80) to Qujan. Arrived at Qujan at around 10am and then took another cab (6000 Iranian Rials) to a different terminal for shared taxi. From Qujan to Bajiran, it’s around 75km on mountain road.

Got to the Iranian border at 11am and then crossed to the Turkmenistan side.

There is an entry tax of USD$12 at the Turkmenistan side. I heard some bad stories about the border gurads in Turkmenistan but the border guards seem quite polite. Spoke with a soldier and he is just 19 years old. Every Turkmen male has to join the military for 2 years after high school. After spot checking my belongings, there’s an official van that took us down the mountain. I think it’s around 20km to the foot of the mountain.

I heard from some travellers before that the ride should be free but the driver will ask for $15-$20 from passengers. True enough, the driver wanted $15 from me. I think that’s just a bribe because I didn’t see the locals paying anything. I tried walking away but the driver tried to grab me. I managed to free myself, walked some distance on the highway

and hitch hike to the city, Ashgabat.

The time here in Ashgabat is 1.5 hours faster the time in Iran. Met a Turkmenistan guy at the bus station and he wanted to help me find my way around. Like in Iran, the money changer just want brand new USD notes. Since my notes are a little crumble, they gave me a bad exchange rate. Spent 3 hours walking around the city to find a budget hotel. All hotels are more expensive than stated in lonely planet. Locals pay much less than foreigners for hotels. Finally got to a Avanov homestay, after haggling, the owner aggreed at 20 New Manat, around USD$7. (1USD~2.85 New manat ~14,000 Old Manat).

Russian Bazaar

Night View

Went to the Turkmenistan embassy again this morning. It’s supposed to be open at 8.30am but they only opened the window at 10am. The embassy wanted the application to be typed, so had to go to a photo shop to fill up the application again.
Finally, got my Turkmenistan transit visa after paying USD$55. It’s a huge relieve for me because that’s the main road block for my trip and I needed to pass Uzbekistan by end of this month.
Most travellers agreed that Turkmenistan visa is the hardest one to get.

Turkmenistan Visa

Vali who is the owner of the homestay brought me and Harold, a german traveller to a cemetry at the north part of Mashhad.

With Vali

Took bus 86 with Harold to Koohsangi. Koohsangi is a nice park at the Southern part of Mashhad. There is a hill which provide a nice overlook of the city.
Koohsangi Park

View of the city

Mini waterfalls

Vali’s son, Reza brought me to Sajad which is at the North Western part of Mashhad. Sajad is a richer neighborhood and it’s slightly more liberal than the center part of Mashhad. There are less girls wearing Chador and I see some more colourful head scarfs here.

Iranian friends at a coffee shop.

There aren’t many coffee shops around. Coffee shops are usually hidden inside some buildings and not easy to find.

Had the 3rd Kebab from the same shop the third time today. One for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kebab is cheap (9000 Iranian Rials~USD$.90). Since I am low on cash and not sure when can I find an ATM, I had to watch my budget carefully.

After 10 days in Iran, I just spent USD$170 on food, accommodation and transportation, USD$55 for Turkmenistan Visa and USD$250 for my camera.

Arrived in Mashhad at around 7am.

Mashhad is the second largest city in Iran with around 3 millions people and is considered one of the holiest place for Shiites. Imam Reza shrine is the resting place for the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. There are around 20 millions people who visit Mashhad for pilgrimage purposes every year.

Took bus 83 to Vali Non-smoking homestay (50,000 Iranian Rials~USD5). The place is hard to find since there wasn’t any sign and a trailer is blocking the entrance.

Walked to the Turkmenistan embassy since it’s not far away.

Like before, the embassy opened late. Then the embassy staffs asked me to come back tomorrow without any reason. Turkmenistan visa is the hardest visa to obtain.

Street in Mashhad

Then walked to Imam Reza Shrine Complex

The big courtyard

Since Non-Muslims weren’t allowed to go into the Shrine, they provided an English speaking guide to escort me around the courtyard. A summary of what I learned from him is, the main difference between Sunnis and Shiites is that Shiites believe in Imam whereas Sunnis do not. After the last prophet died, (Prophet Muhammad) Imam were sent to interpret the Quran. Most Imams were buried in Iraq and Saudi Arabia. If I remembered correctly, 6 were buried in Iraq. The only Imam who is buried in Iran is the 8th Imam. The 11th Imam dissapeared 1100 years ago and Shiites believe that when the 12th Imam, which is the last one appear, all problems in the world will be solved.

Visited the museum (5000 Iranian Rials~USD$.50) in the Holy Shrine so I can get rid of the guide.

Money was donated to the mausoleum

[mappress]

Took a bus to the terminal and got on the 8am bus to Yazd.

Yazd is a city 175 miles southeast of Isfahan and has a population around 500,000. After the Arab Islamic conquest of Persia, many Zoroastrians fled to Yazd from neighbouring provinces. Arrived Yazd at around 12pm and took a cab to Silk Road hostel (50,000 Iranian Rials ~USD5 12 beds dorm room).

Masjid Jameh

There was a tour of the Zoroastrian temple and cemetry organized by the hostel at 3pm (120,000 Iranian Rials ~USD$12). Joined the tour since some of the sites are a little far off from the city and also I had time constraint because I plan to leave for Mashhad tomorrow.

Zoroastrian temple

Tower of silence is the place where the dead is carried up and for the sun and vultures to decompose the human flesh.

Zoroastrians’ structures

Night View of Masjid Jameh

Ate Dizi (Yazd local food 20,000 Iranian Rials ~USD2) for dinner

A square

Next day,

Walked around the city.

Ate Camel burger (13,000 Iranian Rials ~USD1.30)

Old houses

Fesenjun (50,000 Iranian Rials ~USD5), a type of Iranian food cooked with pomegranate and walnut. It tasted a little sour and bitter.

Since Yazd is a desert town, they have to dig tunnels to get underground water.
Water Museum (10,000 Iranian Rials~1USD).

Took a 5pm bus (120,000 Iranian Rials~USD12) to Mashhad. It’s around a thousand kms and will take 14 hours.

[mappress]

Arrived Isfahan at 6.30am. Tried to find my way to Hostel Amir Kabir by walking but finally I ended up taking a shared taxi because I didn’t know it’s that far away. Isfahan is the 3rd largest city with around 2 millions people. During the Safavid dynasty, it was the capital of Persia and is famous for its architecture.

Hostel Amir Kabir (60,000 Iranian Rials~USD6) is considered the backpacker place in Isfahan.

There are many trees and parks around Isfahan. The city looks very welcoming.

Chehel Sotoun (The Palace of forty columns), built in 1647

Naqsh-e Jahan Square also known as or imam square was built in the 1600s. It’s the famous landmark of Isfahan. There are mosques and bazaar at the square.

Imam Square

Old part of the city

Si-o-Seh Pol (The Bridge of 33 Arches) – 1602

Iranians love to picnic

Met some Iranians on the street. Iranians like to practise English with foreigners.
Friendly Iranian girls

Next day,

There was a guy who mentioned that he wanted to show me around but instead he brought me to his friend’s shop and asked me questions about about my country. Not really sure what his motives was. I had met some random people on the street and this is just part of the experiences.

Met up with 2 guys I had known on the street from yesterday. They were quite nice, showed me around and helped me get an Iranian sim card (USD5).

Isfahan is famous for its Beryooni. This dish is made of baked mutton & lungs that are minced and eaten with bread.

Iman and Peyman

Vank Cathedral

at Jolfa which is a neighborhood of Armenian Christians.

Night view of Imam Square

Another Bazaar

Met Najma for a drink and then got some lonely planet softcopy from Guru, an Indian friend who has been traveling for 2 years.

Tehran Bazaar

Got on a motorbike taxi and weaved thourgh the road to Tehran University.

Tehran University

Took the metro to the North to Midarmad station then took a cab (30,000 Iranian Rials~USD3) to Tochal Telecabin. Tochal Telecabin is at the Northern part of Tehran and has a cabel to the Mountains.

Chatted with the receptionist at Hotel Firouzeh. Since credit cards and ATM cards don’t work in Iran because of santioned and embargo, the receptionist mentioned that he can help with transferring money. Just an info for travellers who are strapped for cash.

Took the metro to Argentine square and got on an overnight 12.30am bus to Isfahan (95,000 Iranian Rials ~USD9.5). There are 2 kinds of bus, one which is the normal one and the other one is the more comfy one. It’s around 400km and 6 hours bus ride to Isfahan.
VIP bus

Tehran is a big city but there weren’t a lot to do. Since Iran is an Islamic Republic, venues of entertaintment were not encouraged. There were not many malls, no bars, clubs, cafes and even the internet café closed early. There weren’t many places for food in Tehran which is surprising for a big city. However, Thursday and Friday are considered the weekend and there were many people walking on the street. People here are hospitable and sometimes strangers paid for the shared taxi I was on, which is around 20-30 cents.
Business people and younger generation dislike the government because the government rules like a dictatorship. However, people who are more religious and some middle class are actually quite satisfy with the government and mentioned that the president is a brave and good man who help the poor.
Almost 70% of the cars on the street are Kia and Peugeot. Gas is pretty cheap but there’s a quota for every vehicles. There’s a limit of 300 liters of gas allowed for 3 months. It’s 10 cents per liter within quota and 40 cents if exceed the quota. Gas is subsidized by the government so that’s why transporation is cheap here.

Got up early in the morning and got to the Turkmenistan embassy again.

Tried to apply for a transit visa so I can cross Turkmenistan soon. There were quite a number of people applying as well since the embassy was closed for a week. Even though I was the 3rd in line but still waited for 2 hours. The person at the embassy just took a photocopy of my passport and Uzbekistan visa, then asked me to come back in 5 days for the visa. The 5 days process was considered an express service and cost USD$55. I will try to get the visa in Mashhad.
Went back to the hotel at 12pm and changed to a dorm room (Iranian Rial 50,000 ~ USD$5).

Transportation in Tehran is inexpensive. The metro is subsidized by the government and cost around 15 cents each trip. Taxis here are not that expensive and usually passengers take shared taxis which cost around 3000 Iranian Rials or 30 cents. There are also many motorbike taxis as well.

Imam Khomeini square

There are some sign boards with verses from the Quran along the street. I thought this one is interesting.

Visited the Palace Complex

National Library

Iran National Museum

Some Iranian school kids

The museum is not very big and the Islamic museum was closed for renovation.

Went to the old US embassy with Ralph. The old embassy is just right beside Taleqani metro station. It’s also called the Den of Espionage because US conducted some spying operation here during the 70s. There were many anti American slogan written on the wall.

Surprisingly there is a greek church just opposite from the old US embassy

Non alcoholic beer

Walked to Valiars street, a street with many shops

Across the street from Hotel Mashhad, there is Hotel Firouzeh which provide internet access for USD$3 a day. In Iran, many websites are blocked such as facebook, youtube….and internet connection is slow here.

Got to the Tehran west bus terminal around 5.40am,

the bus arrived earlier than scheduled. Waited for daylight

and then walked to the Tehran metro station.

Morning rush hour

Got off at Mellat station and found Hotel Mashhad at Amir Kabir street. The dorm was full so took a single room. (100,000 Iranian ~ USD10).

Went to the Turkmenistan embassy straight away since that’s the number one concern for me. Took the metro to the North and got off the last station at Golhak. Then took a taxi to the embassy (40,000 Iranian). Unfortunately the embassy was closed and it has been closed for a week and will only open tomorrow.

Took a shared taxi to Tigrish and stopped by the Malaysian embassy at Valenjak street to register.
Noticed that my camera was acting weird and was taking in too much sun light. I should have gotten a new camera earlier but kept procrastinating in order to find the right one. But now I have to. Went to Pai Tak, a mall that sells electronics and got an Olympus. The camera cost USD250. Since Iran was under sanctioned, credit cards and ATM cards don’t work here. This is an unexpected cash outflow and to survive in the next few countries, I would have to watch my budget carefully, else I would be stuck here without money.

Met a Chinese guy on the street, he was sent here to sell heavy machineries by a Chinese company. Caterpillar is one their competitors. Chinese companies are trying to establish themselves in the middle east in more complex products.

Golestan Palace

Walked around the bazaar.

Night View of some buildings

There weren’t a lot of food place in Tehran. It’s hard to find even one restaurant. Since I am low on cash, I just ate ice cream and some cookies for today.

Tehran is a very conservative Islamic country. There are separate section on the bus and metro for woman. Every woman has to wear the hijab at all times. This is unlike Turkey where woman wasn’t allowed to wear the head scarf in public university.

Got back to the hotel, met some interesting people and we went for shishah.

Got up early this morning and went to the police station to get my passport. Haji Omran is a small town with some amazing sceneries

with Then walked to the border crossing which is around 2km away

and got there around 7.45am.
Was driven by a soldier to another room and waited for a short period. There was a roomful of soldiers and I didn’t know what’s going on because no one speak English. One guy turned on Tom and Jerry on the tv this is the only time I appreciate the brilliance of the cartoon. No language was spoken but the joke was understood universally.
Another soldier brought me to another room to photocopy my passport and then finally got the exit stamp on my passport. The soldier was pretty nice, I didn’t have to queue and didn’t have to pay for the photocopy because of him. Had another short interview at the border before allowed to get to the Iran side.

I didn’t have Iranian visa because I read that Malaysian doesn’t need one for 2 weeks stay in the country. However not many people know about it and the border guards on the Iranian side needed some time to make sure. I was a little tense because if I wasn’t allowed to get in, I will be stuck and won’t be able to get to Uzbekistan in time.

Finally got an entry stamp and got to the Iranian side of the border

Took a shared taxi to Piranshar, the closest town at the border. Passed by some wonderful views of the mountains.

Piranshar

Got to the bus terminal at 10.30am, Iranian time is half an hour faster than Iraqi time. There is an overnight bus (100,000 Iranian ~ USD10) to Tehran at 6.30pm so I have some time to kill.
A Kurdish guy (Saadi) wanted to show me around and invited me to his house.

He brought me to more than 10 of his friends and relatives shop, introduced me to everyone.
Had lunch at his place

With Saadi’s brother and nephews. I noticed that Kurdish kids are quite well behaved.

and spent a few hours there.

Went to an internet café to get the address of Turkmenistan and Malaysian embassy. The connection here is very slow.

Got a hair cut (25000 Iranian, around $2.50) at one of his Saddi’s barber shop since I have an extra hour.
I got a lot of stares the whole day and when I got back to the bus terminal, everyone wants to take a photo with me. I guess probably there weren’t many Asian looking people around here.
They forced me to take a photo at the manager’s seat.

At the west part of Iran, majority of the population is Kurdish. In Piranshar, almost everyone is Kurdish. From Turkey to Iran, I had a fantastic experience with the Kurds. They are so nice and everyone smiles all the time, like the Brazilians. Some people even offer me money for cabs, it’s incredible.
Took an overnight bus to Tehran

and the bus ride will take 12 hours. At one of the military checkpoint, I had another short interview about the purposes of my visit. Kurds would love to have their own country since they have their own language and culture. They consist of the majority of the population in most cities surrounding Northern Iraq (Turkey, Iran and Syria) but without a country.